Mouton Noir

Evolution of Terroir Perception:

Old vs. New World Perspectives:

• Traditionally, terroir was an Old World concept, emphasising the influence of the vineyard's physical environment on wine characteristics, or the 'somewhereness' of wine.
• New World producers initially viewed terroir sceptically, considering it a marketing strategy by European winemakers. However, they now acknowledge the importance of terroir in achieving homogeneous grape ripeness and recognising natural variations within vineyards.

Precision Viticulture and Terroir Units:

Adoption of Precision Viticulture:

• New techniques such as precision viticulture allow for the division of vineyards into sub-plots or 'natural terroir units,' enabling targeted interventions and a nuanced understanding of terroir.
• This approach marks a shift from viewing grape growing as a mundane task to appreciating the nuanced role of the vineyard's natural characteristics in shaping wine quality.

Conceptualising Terroir:

Terroir in Old World Wine Laws:

• In regions like France, Italy, and Germany, terroir is a foundational concept, influencing local wine laws and appellations. It fosters a sense of duty among growers to produce wines that are true to their geographical origins and vineyard sites.
• The relationship between soil properties and wine characteristics, such as minerality, is often cited, although the scientific plausibility of direct mineral uptake influencing wine flavour is debated.

Scientific Scrutiny of Terroir:

Challenging the Literalist View:

• Scientists question the literalist theory of terroir, which suggests a direct transfer of flavour compounds from soil to grapes. This view is seen as implausible, considering the known mechanisms of plant physiology and mineral uptake.

Experiments and Views on Mineral Influence:

Randall Grahm’s Experiment:

• The paper discusses an experiment by Randall Grahm, who tested the influence of minerals on wine flavour by directly adding rocks to wine. The experiment demonstrated significant changes in wine characteristics but also highlighted the complexities and limitations of understanding mineral influence in wines.

Divergent Scientific Opinions:

Scepticism Among Viticulturists:

• New world viticulturists and experts express scepticism regarding the direct translocation of flavour molecules from soil to grapes. They suggest that perceived minerality in wines might instead result from a lack of fruitiness or other factors.

Mechanisms of Terroir:

Plant Physiology and Environmental Interaction:

• The paper emphasises understanding plant physiology and the interaction of vines with their environment. Vines are described as 'environmental computers,' adapting their growth and reproductive strategies based on local conditions.
• Root growth and nutrient uptake are influenced by soil properties, with a focus on water supply and nutrient availability rather than direct soil-to-wine flavour transference.

Soil Properties and Terroir Effects:

Importance of Physical Properties:

• Experts argue that physical properties of soil, particularly those affecting water supply to vines, are more crucial for terroir effects than soil chemistry. Well-drained soils with appropriate water availability are considered ideal for expressing terroir.

Future Directions and Concluding Thoughts:

Prospects of Molecular Biology:

• Advances in understanding the molecular biology of grapes and the identification of genes influencing wine flavour could provide deeper insights into how different components of terroir affect specific biochemical pathways in grapes.
• The paper concludes by affirming the value of the terroir concept. While the direct link between soil and wine flavour may be tenuous, the focus on terroir and soil properties by winemakers contributes significantly to the production of the world's most compelling wines.