Sangiovese
Hugely important and wildly variable central Italian variety with many a name and surprising origins.
Origins and Parentage
Earliest Mention: Sangiovese's first mention was in Giovan Vettorio Soderini's 1600 treatise, referred to as Sangiogheto. A legend also ties the name to “Jupiter's blood.”
True Origin: Despite Tuscany being considered its origin, DNA analysis revealed Sangiovese as a natural cross between CILIEGIOLO and CALABRESE DI MONTENUOVO.
Surprising Discovery: CALABRESE DI MONTENUOVO's identification was a big surprise, and evidence points to a Calabrian origin.
Additional Historical Cultivation: DNA profiling discovered Sangiovese's cultivation under various local names in southern Italy.
Progenies: DNA analysis also uncovered several progenies in southern Italy, such as FRAPPATO, GAGLIOPPO, and NERELLO MASCALESE.
Possible Southern Italian Origin: Both CALABRESE DI MONTENUOVO and possibly Sangiovese are likely of southern Italian origin. From there, Sangiovese spread to Tuscany, Corse, and beyond.
Clonal Diversity
Polyclonal Origin: Sangiovese has a complex origin with significant biodiversity, and several distinct varieties are cultivated under its name.
Two Groups: Traditionally divided into Sangiovese Grosso (including Brunello, Prugnolo Gentile) and Sangiovese Piccolo, but this distinction is challenged by recent findings.
Quality Distinction: The notion that superior quality resides in the Grosso family has been refuted. Significant efforts are now directed towards identifying and propagating superior clones rather than focusing on yield.
Other Hypotheses
Etruscan Connection: Some believe Sangiovese was cultivated by the Etruscans and domesticated from wild grapes in Toscana. However, research has failed to identify a genetic link between Sangiovese and wild Tuscan grapes.
CILIEGIOLO Cross Theory: A suggestion was made that CILIEGIOLO is a cross between Sangiovese and Muscat Rouge de Madère, which might itself be a cross between MAMMOLO and MUSCAT BLANC À PETITS GRAINS. This theory is highly disputed due to:
- Muscat Rouge de Madère's supposed Portuguese origin and lack of cultivation history in Italy.
- Absence of the typical Muscat flavor in CILIEGIOLO.
- Contradiction with the discovered cross between Ciliegiolo and CALABRESE DI MONTENUOVO, strongly supported by DNA evidence.
New Parentage Proposal: A recent study suggests another parentage for Sangiovese, stating it is a natural cross between CILIEGIOLO and Negrodolce, an old Puglian variety. This theory claims to present strong evidence for a southern Italian origin for Sangiovese. However, doubts arise as the DNA profile of Negrodolce is found to be identical to Morellino del Valdarno, a Tuscan variety with an already established parent-offspring relationship with Sangiovese.
Viticultural Characteristics
Vigor: Sangiovese is vigorous and highly susceptible to botrytis bunch rot due to its thin skins. Ripening: It is slow and late in ripening. Drought Resistance: It is resistant to drought and produces a relatively high yield.
Where it's Grown and What its Wine Tastes Like:
- Corsica, France: Known as Nielluccio, it's widely planted and highly regarded, especially in the Patrimonio region. The wines are tannic but age-worthy.
- Languedoc, France: Interest in Sangiovese is growing due to its drought resistance and reliable yields.
- Italy: It is the most widely planted variety, especially in regions like Toscana, Emilia-Romagna, the Marche, and Umbria. Famous for Chiantis and Brunello di Montalcino, the quality is highly variable, depending on clones, location, and yield. Some producers focus on local expressions, resulting in a re-evaluation of Chianti Classico and other all-Sangiovese wines.
- Other European Countries: Found in Switzerland, Malta, Turkey, Greece, and Israel.
- USA: In California, there was a significant decline in planting since a peak in 2003, but there are still notable producers. In Washington State, the bright fruit quality suits Sangiovese.
- Canada: Experimental plantings in Ontario and British Columbia.
- South America: Present in Argentina, Chile, and Brazil. Australia: Though a late arrival and initially producing inconsistent results, there is an improvement in Sangiovese wines with a selection of clones available.
- New Zealand: Limited enthusiasm, with only a few producers. South Africa: Limited plantings, but some producers are making varietals and blends.
Flavor Profile
- Sangiovese wines can offer alluring aromas of plums and dried underbrush when fully ripe. Less ripe or less carefully made versions may exhibit farmyard aromas.
- It is known for elegant and forceful aromas, especially when grown in the presence of limestone. The grape adapts well to various soils.
- Fine varietal examples exist in many regions, though early plantings in the '60s to '80s resulted in wines lacking body and color, with considerable acid and astringency.
- It is used as the principal or essential vine variety in many famous Italian red wines and blends, often with international varieties.
Overall, Sangiovese's appeal lies in its diverse expressions across various regions and terroirs, with a particular stronghold in Italy. Its adaptability to different soils and climates has allowed for experimentation and planting worldwide, though quality and consistency may vary.